Smoke Shack Bedford - Opening night impressions

Smoke Shack threw open its door to the grateful, meat hungry denizens of Bedford on Thursday 4th June. Their second venue following a highly successful and well-reviewed start in Stony Stratford, the sequel to Smoke Shack has taken on the site of the defunct BBQ Bob’s on Mill Street. We were invited to attend the launch night along with some lucky winners of a ‘golden ticket’ competition and our first impressions are that, expected teething problems aside, Bedford could soon have a top class BBQ joint on its hands.


When you arrive at a brand new restaurant and walk down a red carpet to be greeted by the wrinkled brow of Gordon Ramsay, your tastebuds prepare themselves for a special culinary experience. Ramsay turned out to be a lookalike (there was also a Mr T, both of them from ‘The Chippendoubles’ of Britain’s Got Talent fame) but the food at Smoke Shack, which aims to combine the best of British and American smoke houses, has a real authenticity.


Crucially for a BBQ restaurant, the quality of the produce on offer is clearly very good and it was mostly well-prepared. The smoked ham hock terrine starter was delicious, livened-up by the fresh, zingy house-made piccalilli. The nachos were about what you would expect and would have been more interesting if they had come topped with the smoked chicken and black treacle bacon lardons we had ordered.

On to the mains, the Shack Attack burger was delicious. The high-quality beef had a deep, rounded flavour and, cooked slightly pink, was still wonderfully soft and juicy, nestled neatly inside a rich brioche bun. We also had the grand spare ribs. These are not the huge, meaty, fatty ribs that we have had elsewhere (we asked the waiter to assure us that they weren’t the baby backs) but the pork was tasty and very succulent, falling off the bone and melting in the mouth. They were, as you would expect, deeply smoky. But somewhere between the smoking process and the spice rub they had become very salty. For some people, we suspect, they would have been inedibly salty. The crispy fries were fine but they were brought to life by the wide variety of fantastic hot and smokey sauces on the table.

When it comes to dessert menus, some BBQ restaurants can really disappoint. Not so here. We were disappointed not to be able to have the peanut butter fondant because it sounds amazing, but the black forest eton mess was everything we wanted it to be-very dark chocolate sponge, very sweet meringue and very boozy kirsch laced cherries. The special cheesecake was similar: super sweet, not very subtle but perfect if that’s what you are looking for in a dessert. We also have to mention how pleased we were that the restaurant offers the crisp, refreshing Curious Brew lager on tap.

There were, as you would expect, a few teething problems with service which we expect will be improved upon. In addition to the unavailability of the peanut butter fondant the kitchen ran out of chicken wings (our favourite!) and there were a few mistakes with our orders and a lack of knowledge about the menu among the waiting staff.


Our party was a little divided on the restaurant decor. One of us guiltily missed the gaudy Americana that adorned the walls of BBQ Bob’s, but the other admired the warm simplicity and the sense of space created by the giant mirror on the back wall. However, we were agreed on two things. First, that the effort that has gone into revamping the space in the short lead time since the restaurant’s announcement was impressive. Second, that we love the giant bear mural in the bar.



On what must have been a difficult opening night for the Smoke Shack team, we were left confident that with a few tweaks it will be one of Bedford’s top eateries. The menu has been designed deliberately so that diners will face a difficult choice in deciding what to order and the range of delicious-sounding burgers, dogs and grills on offer will certainly have us coming back for more in the next few weeks. We look forward to offering our updated impressions when we do.

Rice

On our first visit to Rice over 2 years ago I thought “it’s about time!” A great, quirky, independent restaurant that is pushing our local eateries to get better and better.

Rice, located on St.Cuthbert’s Street is tucked out of the way, situated neatly in a small row of shops. No parking available so plan your trip in advance.

The restaurant is well decorated with a modest colour scheme with beautiful flowers situated on each of the tables. It is a small, intimate and bubbly restaurant, probably seating at most 20 people. The staff and charismatic manager Tim are not too intrusive but instead create a warm, relaxed and family feel.

I am pleased to say Rice has avoided the route of tacky cliché memorabilia but instead lets the food do the talking.
To start we order the Garlic Ribs and Tiger Prawn Tempura. Both dishes did not disappoint. The Tempura was battered deliciously, with a non-greasy light texture. The sweet chili dip accompanied the flavours well and we were left wanting more.

The Garlic Ribs were some of the best ribs I’ve ever tasted! The portion, which could feed more than 2 people, was cooked to perfection. The rich, tangy BBQ and garlic sauce gave a new definition to the phrase ‘moreish’!

For our main courses we chose the Thai Red Curry with Duck and the classic Pad Thai Noodles with Chicken.   The Thai Red Curry was a fantastically aromatic dish, well presented and flavoursome.
With a note of tamarind and garlic against the crunchy and salty flavour of the nuts, the Pad Thai Noodles left us wanting more! We also liked the sprinkle of chili flakes on the side… Nice touch!
Our recommendation; Go! Make sure bookings our made well in advance as tables go early on the weekends and plan your travel beforehand.  My personal menu recommendation is the ribs and Thai Red Curry.

BBQ Bobs

Barbecue is big right now. If you are even the least bit foody you will have come across (and probably consumed) plenty of pulled pork this summer and American-style BBQ joints serving authentically prepared ribs, steaks and other hunks of meat have been doing great business in the capital. Bedford, too, with its glut of Indian and Italian offerings, is crying out for a restaurant like BBQ Bob’s on Mill Street and we would like to see it succeed for that reason alone. But having visited several times in the last few months, it’s disappointing to report that the food at Bob’s is a real mixed bag.

‘Authentic’ is the key word here and Bob’s menu really emphasises the fact that all of the meat on offer has been smoked in-house and cooked on the day that you’re going to eat it. When they run out of an item, it says, there will be no reaching into the deepest recesses of the freezer to pull out weeks old bits of chicken. The idea of this focus on freshness and careful preparation is spot on. So when the reality of the food presented doesn’t live up to it, it’s doubly disappointing.

Bob has constructed a pleasingly tight, focused menu but the dishes which should be show-stoppers at any barbecue joint were not good. When we visited with a large party recently, five of us chose the delicious-sounding slow-cooked brisket. It’s no exaggeration to say that it was almost inedible. Dry and tough with chewy fat, it was like they had warmed up and plated slices of some sub-Aldi budget supermarket’s packet beef. Unfortunately it appears this was not an isolated incident—we’ve heard similar complaints about the brisket since. Bob’s pulled pork is ok, with a sweet, smokey flavour, but presented as it is in an uninspiring roll without any of the moist, sticky BBQ sauce (or even mayonnaise) that you would expect, it’s just too dry. So are the ribs which, though they have good flavour, were a bit too chewy.

In short, if the food is being prepared as the menu promises, it just doesn’t always taste like it.

There are positives. The service we received was excellent. All five of our very disappointing briskets were comped, as was a burger that was offered as a replacement. The burger was delicious. Tasty beef steak served slightly pink, it was very succulent and melt-in-the-mouth. The chicken wings were excellent, smothered in a lovely, smokey sauce with the meat falling off the bone. The accompaniments are great, particularly the fries which are seasoned with a nice spice mix. There’s also a strong selection of cocktails and Bob’s home-brewed beer is a nice touch, even if it tastes a little tinny.


So while there are signs of promise, as true meat lovers who were very excited about BBQ Bob’s our overall judgement can’t be a positive one. Some of the dishes need to be tweaked and others completely reconsidered. We hope they are: Bedford’s carnivores deserve the best.

d'Parys

Once a well respected and popular restaurant and hotel, De Parys Hotel as it was once known fell into a sorry state. Worn out carpets, lacklustre staff and an uninspiring menu all colluded in its downfall. But we are pleased to report it has been transformed- quite literally- into something quite unrecognisable and delightful.

d'Parys, as it is now known, forms part of Apostrophe Pubs- a venture by local brewery Charles Wells. It has just undergone what we believe is a £1.3million overhaul and it certainly doesn't disappoint. What had fast digressed into a stale and uninspiring location is now a vibrant, zesty and modern setting that oozes class and style. You can tell a lot of thought has gone in to the interior decoration and it gives the feel you could be in London or another big, metropolitan city. The soft lighting gives an inviting look to the Victorian building from the outside, accompanied by a quirky mural on the side of the building showing what looks like an election in old Bedford. Quite original. The restaurant has a bar to the left that has incredible attention to detail- including a gelato tuck-shop style bar. You then walk into the ‘library’ where you can eat or simply enjoy a drink (as the traditional pub bar is no longer there) and the expansive restaurant offers a dynamic stage but keeps an intimate feel- maybe from the comfortable booths in the centre or the ceiling decorated with different coloured-painted door shutters! The kitchen is visible with a partially-open feel and you can regularly hear a chorus of ‘Yes Chef.’ The back and right side remains glass-walled which I’m sure will be lovely in the summer as the views extend over the grounds of Bedford school and there is eating space outside.

With a restaurant/ hotel so impeccably designed it immediately sets an incredible high standard with the food which unfortunately it didn’t quite hit. The menu choices were nice but with the feel of the restaurant being as though you are somewhere award-winning in the city, the food didn’t quite seem as imaginative. Still finding an identity I’m sure, the choices were confusing – potato skins as a starter conjuring thoughts of pub grub with monkfish tail as a ‘special’. The dessert choice was limited but we were intrigued by the ‘egg n chips’ panacotta and pineapple which aesthetically was delightful. I would suggest a new menu design (both in terms of food and the actual menus) which bridges the gap a little more between the Charles Wells brewery control and what could be quite an imaginative chef who may want more free rein. The decor is far superior to fellow establishments in Bedford yet the standard of food seemed on par with the Embankment or Park Pub. The waitresses were incredibly friendly but in need of vital training; our drinks were delivered and we were then asked what we would like to drink, they didn’t yet have cheese knives yet offering a cheese course, ice cream cornetts being handed to customers rather than served in a bowl, no idea what monkfish tail is, etc. But we would like to add that service with a smile means everything and they were certainly incredibly welcoming and friendly.

In summary – go. The guest rooms are like something from an interiors magazine and you are left with the impression that no expense is spared. But don’t be disappointed when your food doesn’t meet the same standards- whether it’s a teething problem or the direction of the brewery you are left feeling slightly short-changed but this is forgiven for the setting that buzzy, beautifully decorated, friendly and enjoyable.

The Black Horse, Ireland (Bedfordshire)

The Black Horse in Ireland, all foodies in Bedfordshire will know it as an impeccable restaurant and pub set in the heart of the Bedfordshire countryside. We have been here many times and the reason we keep coming back? The two ingredients needed in any good restaurant; well cooked fresh food and good service. 

The Black Horse really ticks both boxes. The friendly welcoming staff that recognise a birthday with a card and special message with dessert. They will recommend a wine to suit your course and happily change the ingredients to suit your party's sometimes finicky requirements. 

The ingredients are sourced locally where possible and you can still taste the crispness of the summer greens by the time they're on your plate. On our latest visit I opted for the pork belly with amongst other things, black pudding. Before you reel with disgust at the thought of congealed pigs blood, this flavoursome black pudding was fresh, earthy and some of the best I've had. Accompanied by an exquisitely cooked potato cake, a spiced bramley apple sauce, a rather hearty gravy and of course the moist, tender, locally reared pork. 

If you like good food but not the pretentious atmosphere nor hefty price tag that usually comes with it, The Black Horse is certainly worth a try. Oh - especially in the summer, as it provides a welcomed pit stop to any weekends country drive. 

The Bedford river festival

Brilliant weather to complement a great two days

The festival is close to the hearts of every Bedfordian, whether newly adopted or born and bred. The 2012 festival was a great success; it brings the whole of Bedford together with surrounding areas for fun, frolics, dancing, racing, drinking, eating and spending money. The latter is the most important with regards to the longevity of the festival. Let’s hope it was a success for all local businesses that decided to get involved this year. If the festival generates money for the local economy it will certainly continue to hold its place in Bedford’s biennial calendar. Reports suggest the festival was visited by approximately 300 000 people over the two days. Such an increase in footfall around our town means a big opportunity for local businesses to make money. It’s also a great way to showcase the town to visitors to hopefully entice them back to Bedford on a quieter weekend. The river festival is something that sets our town apart from others and especially after this year is something that I’m particularly proud of. Yes, there may be an issue with how people were disposing of their rubbish but I do think it’s something that a well-co-ordinated local awareness campaign would be able to improve in the run-up to the next festival. There may also be some people that decide to over-indulge in alcohol and turn a happy occasion into an unhappy one but from what I witnessed the police were in full attendance and private security guards were very responsive. Any visitor to the festival is privy to the great community spirit that washes over Bedford for that short time. If only if it could hang around for another two years!   

The Tavistock Pub



The Tavistock Pub



The Tavistock Pub is situated on … wait for it, Tavistock Street Bedford. So hardly the most appeasing streets in our town but certainly known for its sheer number of restaurants particularly those of the Indian persuasion. The pub offers quite an extensive selection of food from pizzas to deserts but is best known for its buffets and carvery. The Tavistock offers a buffet cooked breakfast with all the trimmings, this is one I have sampled and it doesn’t disappoint. It is reminiscent of a rather good hotel style breakfast, where you inevitably eat more than you usually would in the morning because it’s free. The pub itself is decorated very nicely on the inside and out. It has kept the character of the old building but has a very modern feel to it. It’s open plan and comfortable which is good for eating. I am yet to visit in the evening to see how well it does at being a pub rather than an eatery. It will be interesting to see however I imagine that with a bit of good live music it would be very pleasant indeed. The carvery is available all day from12 – 9.30pm and even as a takeaway option. From what I have seen and tasted of the food it seems to be fresh and well cooked. I doubt they will be winning any Michelin stars but if you like good honest pub food (and lots of it) then you will like The Tavistock.

The Tavistock Pub certainly beats its carvery rival, the Toby’s Carvery (Goldington Road) on the grounds of service, quality of food, atmosphere and it’s just an all-round nicer place to be.

Quality 8

Service 9

Price 8

#Wicbha? Very likely