d'Parys

Once a well respected and popular restaurant and hotel, De Parys Hotel as it was once known fell into a sorry state. Worn out carpets, lacklustre staff and an uninspiring menu all colluded in its downfall. But we are pleased to report it has been transformed- quite literally- into something quite unrecognisable and delightful.

d'Parys, as it is now known, forms part of Apostrophe Pubs- a venture by local brewery Charles Wells. It has just undergone what we believe is a £1.3million overhaul and it certainly doesn't disappoint. What had fast digressed into a stale and uninspiring location is now a vibrant, zesty and modern setting that oozes class and style. You can tell a lot of thought has gone in to the interior decoration and it gives the feel you could be in London or another big, metropolitan city. The soft lighting gives an inviting look to the Victorian building from the outside, accompanied by a quirky mural on the side of the building showing what looks like an election in old Bedford. Quite original. The restaurant has a bar to the left that has incredible attention to detail- including a gelato tuck-shop style bar. You then walk into the ‘library’ where you can eat or simply enjoy a drink (as the traditional pub bar is no longer there) and the expansive restaurant offers a dynamic stage but keeps an intimate feel- maybe from the comfortable booths in the centre or the ceiling decorated with different coloured-painted door shutters! The kitchen is visible with a partially-open feel and you can regularly hear a chorus of ‘Yes Chef.’ The back and right side remains glass-walled which I’m sure will be lovely in the summer as the views extend over the grounds of Bedford school and there is eating space outside.

With a restaurant/ hotel so impeccably designed it immediately sets an incredible high standard with the food which unfortunately it didn’t quite hit. The menu choices were nice but with the feel of the restaurant being as though you are somewhere award-winning in the city, the food didn’t quite seem as imaginative. Still finding an identity I’m sure, the choices were confusing – potato skins as a starter conjuring thoughts of pub grub with monkfish tail as a ‘special’. The dessert choice was limited but we were intrigued by the ‘egg n chips’ panacotta and pineapple which aesthetically was delightful. I would suggest a new menu design (both in terms of food and the actual menus) which bridges the gap a little more between the Charles Wells brewery control and what could be quite an imaginative chef who may want more free rein. The decor is far superior to fellow establishments in Bedford yet the standard of food seemed on par with the Embankment or Park Pub. The waitresses were incredibly friendly but in need of vital training; our drinks were delivered and we were then asked what we would like to drink, they didn’t yet have cheese knives yet offering a cheese course, ice cream cornetts being handed to customers rather than served in a bowl, no idea what monkfish tail is, etc. But we would like to add that service with a smile means everything and they were certainly incredibly welcoming and friendly.

In summary – go. The guest rooms are like something from an interiors magazine and you are left with the impression that no expense is spared. But don’t be disappointed when your food doesn’t meet the same standards- whether it’s a teething problem or the direction of the brewery you are left feeling slightly short-changed but this is forgiven for the setting that buzzy, beautifully decorated, friendly and enjoyable.