d'Parys

Once a well respected and popular restaurant and hotel, De Parys Hotel as it was once known fell into a sorry state. Worn out carpets, lacklustre staff and an uninspiring menu all colluded in its downfall. But we are pleased to report it has been transformed- quite literally- into something quite unrecognisable and delightful.

d'Parys, as it is now known, forms part of Apostrophe Pubs- a venture by local brewery Charles Wells. It has just undergone what we believe is a £1.3million overhaul and it certainly doesn't disappoint. What had fast digressed into a stale and uninspiring location is now a vibrant, zesty and modern setting that oozes class and style. You can tell a lot of thought has gone in to the interior decoration and it gives the feel you could be in London or another big, metropolitan city. The soft lighting gives an inviting look to the Victorian building from the outside, accompanied by a quirky mural on the side of the building showing what looks like an election in old Bedford. Quite original. The restaurant has a bar to the left that has incredible attention to detail- including a gelato tuck-shop style bar. You then walk into the ‘library’ where you can eat or simply enjoy a drink (as the traditional pub bar is no longer there) and the expansive restaurant offers a dynamic stage but keeps an intimate feel- maybe from the comfortable booths in the centre or the ceiling decorated with different coloured-painted door shutters! The kitchen is visible with a partially-open feel and you can regularly hear a chorus of ‘Yes Chef.’ The back and right side remains glass-walled which I’m sure will be lovely in the summer as the views extend over the grounds of Bedford school and there is eating space outside.

With a restaurant/ hotel so impeccably designed it immediately sets an incredible high standard with the food which unfortunately it didn’t quite hit. The menu choices were nice but with the feel of the restaurant being as though you are somewhere award-winning in the city, the food didn’t quite seem as imaginative. Still finding an identity I’m sure, the choices were confusing – potato skins as a starter conjuring thoughts of pub grub with monkfish tail as a ‘special’. The dessert choice was limited but we were intrigued by the ‘egg n chips’ panacotta and pineapple which aesthetically was delightful. I would suggest a new menu design (both in terms of food and the actual menus) which bridges the gap a little more between the Charles Wells brewery control and what could be quite an imaginative chef who may want more free rein. The decor is far superior to fellow establishments in Bedford yet the standard of food seemed on par with the Embankment or Park Pub. The waitresses were incredibly friendly but in need of vital training; our drinks were delivered and we were then asked what we would like to drink, they didn’t yet have cheese knives yet offering a cheese course, ice cream cornetts being handed to customers rather than served in a bowl, no idea what monkfish tail is, etc. But we would like to add that service with a smile means everything and they were certainly incredibly welcoming and friendly.

In summary – go. The guest rooms are like something from an interiors magazine and you are left with the impression that no expense is spared. But don’t be disappointed when your food doesn’t meet the same standards- whether it’s a teething problem or the direction of the brewery you are left feeling slightly short-changed but this is forgiven for the setting that buzzy, beautifully decorated, friendly and enjoyable.

The failings of chains

With our economy on the brink of another recession, we will inevitably see more and more local businesses and services folding. However, what I have noticed is that people are still going out to eat and socialise over food and drink and where chains tend to withstand difficulties, independent restaurants always have to up their game to survive. The service has to be top notch and the food has to be above average. And it shows. However, are the chains over-confident and taking their customers for granted? Perhaps.

In the last week I have been able to experience three big chain restaurants and to say I was disappointed is an understatement. Last night, with a pizza craving, we headed to Pizza Hut on the Aspects Leisure Park. Just driving past we could see it was busy- it is school holidays, but that didn’t worry us. However, walking in we were firstly unable to even get inside owing to the pile up of people in the tiny waiting/ take away area who were waiting for orders or to be seated. We stood at the front desk where you wait to be seated and we were not acknowledged for over 5 minutes even though we saw three members of staff standing around chatting for a couple of minutes. It was also awful to see they had a table of 2 literally in the doorway although at the back of the restaurant there were many empty tables. We noticed the floor was covered in pizza, napkins and cutlery and the salad bar looked as though a bomb had hit it. When we were eventually seen to, we were told it was a twenty minute wait and so we left as we had already gone off the idea. It’s a shame that in this day and age, huge businesses such as the Whitbread Group who are lucky enough to be able to withstand these worrying times and have such a large market captured, are unable to meet basic customer service standards.
Sticking to the chains, we headed to Frankie and Bennies. We were served as soon as we got in, although by the door where the front door is always open and so there is a draft, but the staff were very friendly and polite. We were served quickly and ordered chicken wings to share to start, a New Yorker burger each and then pancakes to share for dessert. Unfortunately, in true chain- standard the wings were quite fatty and burnt and the burgers were dripping in fat and grease. Maybe we were expecting too much?
However, with these big eatery companies and names, is good food too much to ask? The dessert was nice but we were left waiting for it and the bill for nearly 20 minutes. The polite female member of staff explained they were very short staffed and apologised for the wait- a shame as we saw three sets of people walk in, fail to be acknowledged or seated and instead left to go elsewhere.

Lastly, the worst experience was last week. I went to Pizza Express with a friend and we went earlier at half past 6. Again, we realised it was school holidays and so there were many kids with parents. However, once again we were sat in a rather awful place- a table for two right by the cutlery and so you are constantly battling over the sound of the knives and forks to be heard. Literally as soon as we were sat down and given the menus, a female member of staff (who we found out to be new) asked us what we wanted. We kindly explained that it might be nice to have a few minutes to have a look at the menu and so she stood two steps away and waited for us, whilst watching. In a bid to end the awkward moment, we quickly chose olives and dough balls to start and a pizza each. For 20 minutes we chatted and then we realised we had not had our starters- we understand it was busy but the problem was we could see them sitting on the side along with 4-5 pizzas with no-one taking them out. However, the new member of staff was standing around doing nothing and another came and stopped to talk to her. We had to ask for them to bring them over.

Whilst eating them we were constantly faced with children running passed our table- not the restaurants fault but annoying at the same time as the gap between us and he table next to us was around 1 foot and so the table was nudged every time. We also noticed a back member of staff continually take a full dirty rubbish bin from the back through the restaurant to the outside bins- which smelt and was quite unhygienic.

By the time we got our pizzas, nearly an hour had gone and mine was dry with the cheese hard where it had been sat out. I didn’t want to wait another half an hour and so I notified the waitress and said it might be worth keeping an eye on others. I then heard her tell a manager who said ‘if she doesn’t want another one that’s good and we don’t have to give anything away free.’

In the meantime, the new member of staff attempted to carry a tray with 4-5 bottles on it which then were dropped and glass was shattered all over the floor and by our feet- this then took around 20 minutes for them to clear up.

I was quite keen on leaving by the end- luckily we had vouchers (which Pizza Express is very good at) and so we didn’t spend much.

I look forward to visiting more independent restaurants now- I’m quite happy to give the chains a rest.

The Cappuccino Bar

The Cappuccino Bar

Last Wednesday evening I took an old friend from Scotland down to the Cappuccino Bar on Newnham Street, next to the auctioneers, for dinner. We were in the mood for a couple of drinks and a catch up and so I thought of this place because it is delightfully laid back. Although it states on the website ‘...it is the ideal setting for any occasion, whether it is romantic meal for two, a dinner with family or a lively celebration you have in mind..’ it’s not necessarily somewhere I would go for a romantic evening nor a birthday celebration, however it is thoroughly enjoyable for a low-key dinner, with affordable prices, nice food and friendly staff. We both opted for the ‘two courses for £9.95’ option which, unlike most restaurants with similar offers, does not exclude anything on the menu, and therefore is excellent value as the courses are by no means small. We sat in the back ‘garden’ area which is intentionally roofed with overgrown plants and flowers which creates an outdoor, Mediterranean feel where a group of Italian singers wandering from table to table would not be out of place. The only problem with that decor and the muggy summer evenings is the rise in the number of flies that are in the room, which got a little annoying whilst eating. The layout of the restaurant is also unfortunate as the narrow room can be quite noisy when the restaurant is busy- which it normally is. I have had the misfortune of sitting in the back right-hand corner of the front part of the restaurant where the cutlery is stored and it can be quite ear-piercing every time a waiter or waitress goes to fetch or replace the knives, forks and spoons. However, what I like about this place is that it doesn’t pretend to be anything that it isn’t and it works well as a cafe/restaurant for locals who want nice-sized pizza and pasta with a glass of wine, without queuing for an hour down the road in Pizza Express. One of my biggest bugbears with the British food industry, and one I have experienced countless times in Bedford, is the lack of ability to cater for customers on a busy night- restaurants will happily quote you a time of an hour or more (which is never the case if you hang around and wait) and therefore will happily lose the business to avoid being ‘over-busy’. But, in true European style, the Cappuccino bar will do everything it can to accommodate customers without sacrificing service and will gratefully receive the business, giving the restaurant a welcoming reputation.

Quality- 6-7

Price – 9

Service – 8

Would I go back again? Absolutely.

The Plough

The Plough at Bolnhurst is my favourite restaurant in the Bedford area. The food is of a consistently high quality cooked under the auspices of chef Martin Lee who trained under Raymond Blanc among others. The menu is distinctly English in character with Italian and French influences that change with the seasons. The wine list is extensive and each main menu item has a suggested wine accompaniment. An average meal with wine will set you back around £30.

Situated in this small village 10 minutes drive from the town, guests are greeted with a warm welcome from Martin and Jayne Lee who always wear a smile even at the busiest of times. There is a wide selection of ales for the beer drinker and guests are offered complimentary bread and an olive/balsamic vinegar dip with the meal if desired. Such is the popularity that booking is essential. However, if you turn up at the 6 o’clock opening time, you may be able to grab one of the tables in the bar area. The proprietors have recently built an extension to increase the number of tables inside, and on hot summer days there are many more tables outside in a pleasant environment. The pub is closed on Mondays.

Quality 9
Service 10
Price 8
#Wicbha? An unequivocal yes.

The Embankment

The pinnacle of Bedford’s beauty, especially on a summer’s day, is at the riverside, the green of the banks, white of the swans, colours of the flowers and reflections on the water do make this a truly beautiful spot. The Embankment hotel has prime location and has the perfect view of the river and surrounding greenery to complement a refreshing summer's drink.

The Embankment has improved no end since its renovation from quite a traditional and out-dated place to the new modern, ‘gastro-pub’ it has become since being taken over by Peach Pubs. The decor is light and relaxing and the staff are young and energetic.

However, the problem I have encountered quite regularly is the inconsistency of good service. Whilst holding one of the prime spots in the town, the service can often do the establishment an injustice.

On countless occasions I have been waiting at a bar or at a table for ten minutes or more without being acknowledged- a small but very important aspect of customer service that should be engrained in the minds of all those who work in the service industry. Today, for example, we took a family member from Australia there for lunch as the weather was so nice. However, we were told out of the four sandwich choices; they had run out of tuna (I assume probably one of the favourites on the menu as tuna often is, and why a member of staff does not nip out and buy a tin I don’t know) and so the menu goes down to three lunch time sandwiches. 
We then had to clear the table ourselves and when the food arrived we had to go inside and ask THREE times for some cutlery. To be fair, the boys working were busy at the bar but there were two women standing talking to each other who should really have been helping as a customer should not have to wait that long for such a basic requirement. We then ordered coffees and had to clear the table ourselves again to make space- the coffee cup was filthy down the side too. This kind of service frustrates me, especially when you see the likes of Eat Fish, the fish restaurant that lasted around 2 years down the road, go out of business, who prided themselves on customer service but had not the funding or customer understanding of the menu to succeed. However, they knew the importance of where they were placed and the benefit of a riverside spot.

In the past a friend has complained at The Embankment on waiting an hour for a bottle of wine to be brought to the table, and he was compensated with a free meal for two where he said the service was impeccable. However, he attended two weeks later and was faced with similar problems with waiting for service and it being haphazard. Let’s hope the pub/restaurant/hotel raises its standards to match the location – as it would in most modern towns and cities around the world.

Rating out of 10
Quality 7
Service 3
Price 6
#Wicbha? Would I come back here again? 

Yes I will come back here again because even though it disappoints it really is unrivalled in terms of location and atmosphere. Please share your views...